Once you choose hope, anything is possible.

Friday, 20 November 2015

Trouser curve for pattern fitting

I am in an information gathering phase I think and it might be a little while until I actually get to do anything with tissue or fabric.
I have been using my bendy ruler to see what sort of crotch curve I have - its sort of like measuring an armhole to see what a sleeve cap should look like though so definitely interesting. I don't do too badly imaging things in 3D so I'm hoping all this thinking will make progress simpler later.

My crotch curve is longer than the ruler. 27" front to back of which 16" is at the back and 11 at the front.
The back is shaped like 2/3rds of a U, very rounded but the front is a smooth shallow curve. It a very strange looking thing with the two together. I think it is worth tackling this part first and then looking at the legs after that.
Comparing it to a Burda draft, the back is sort of in the right shape but the crotch needs to be another 2" deeper!
The front crotch curve needs to be shorter in the rise and deeper by an inch and a quarter, that's another 3.5" I need in depth - wow. Mind who cares what the pattern pieces look like if it fits.

I shall have to process that a bit as I am stunned. May add pictures tomorrow.

Thursday, 19 November 2015

Basic trouser pattern

I had a search about in my pattern stash and came up with this OOP Butterick pattern which includes what is described as 'loose fitting tapered pants' in a good large size range which matches my actual waist and hip measurements, though depending how much ease they have included in that 'loose fit' may make them enormous. Anyway its a pattern dated 2000 from my stash, so in essence free, and entirely uncut so lots of chance to have extra large seam allowances and try out the 6 alterations I think I need.

Wednesday, 18 November 2015

Trouser fitting

The side seam is at a strange angle, the wide trouser leg masks this slightly.
I think this is a forward tilted hip.

I spent some time reading Pants for Real people - Pati Palmer and Marta Alto last night. No-one exactly like me, but plenty of variation which was encouraging and I was middling in the size range they fit.

It looks like I need to get a basic slim leg trouser pattern from my stash add one inch seam allowances and start playing with it.

It looked to me that I need to add a little extra for a full tummy (and wear my tops out).
then some extra for full front thighs, particularly at the front inseam.
extra only on the back pattern piece for full calves
I need a sway back, full buttock and under butt bagginess fix as well
So make those 6 alterations and I should have some wearable pants!

If I am doing all that I might as well start with a Simplicity pattern and do the Burda butt alterations first and then take it from there.
I am out tonight and busy at the weekend but see what I can manage on Friday evening.

Simplicity 4375 might be a possible starting place for some basic trousers.

Tuesday, 17 November 2015

SWAP Summary

May not use these exact patterns, but here is an idea of how the SWAP might look.
Taupe – jacket   3 Pack A Taupe/Pink
Taupe – trousers   3 Pack A Taupe/Pink
Knit top – coral pink   3 Pack A Taupe/Pink
Stone – trousers 2   3 Pack B Stone
Stone – cardigan   3 Pack B Stone
Knit top – Ivory and stone stripe   3 Pack B Stone
Taupe – skirt   Combo Pack
Knit top – pink/mint print   Combo Pack
Dirty denim – jeans   Wild card
Knit top – small duck egg print   Wild card
Knit top – large duck egg print   Wild card

The sleeveless top will get sleeves added but it is from Simplicity 2977.

I've made it before in ivory jersey and liked it a lot before it wore out and went in the rag bag.

Monday, 16 November 2015

Giant (but comfy) corduroy trousers for gentle critique

So I had this piece of rusty cotton cord, I dyed it with a bright pink dye I think it was and it came out a lovely deep burgundy. It mirinaded in the stash and then I fancied some winter trousers.
I took a Burda pattern which was a bit tight and added a bit extra, cut out the slightly wrinkled cord (from being washed) pressed as I constructed and made some giant wide leg trousers. They were falling down so I did a temporary fix of some elastic in the back waist.

Just rather baggy all over. Hmm.

Sunday, 8 November 2015

Purple Bunting

For a special birthday, the recipient asked for purple, hope she likes it.
We are attending the party at the end of this month but I was asked to send the bunting in advance for decorating the room.

Tuesday, 3 November 2015

SWAP 2016 rules are up

The rules for SWAP 2016 have been announced on Stitchers Guild
SWAP 2016 Rules

I've tried to come up with a plan which meets the rules using the fabrics and garments I had planned earlier.

Taupe – jacket
3 Pack A Taupe/Pink
Taupe – trousers
3 Pack A Taupe/Pink
Knit top – coral pink
3 Pack A Taupe/Pink
Stone – trousers 2
3 Pack B Stone
Stone – cardigan
3 Pack B Stone
Knit top – Ivory and stone stripe
3 Pack B Stone
Taupe – skirt
Combo Pack
Knit top – pink/mint print
Combo Pack
Dirty denim – jeans
Wild card
Knit top – small duck egg print
Wild card
Knit top – large duck egg print
Wild card

SWAP 2016
Colour palette – coral pink, duck egg blue, taupe
Styles – suit with trousers and skirt, jeans, lots of tops, other trousers, cardigan

Taupe – jacket
Taupe - trousers
Taupe - skirt
Stone – trousers 2
Stone – cardigan
Dirty denim – jeans
Knit top – coral pink
Knit top – pink/mint/stone print
Knit top – small duck egg print
Knit top – large duck egg print
Knit top – Ivory and stone stripe

5 tops, 4 bottoms, 2 layers and would get me through a whole week at work I should think
L- R
Coral pink jersey, mint/pink/stone print jersey, large duck egg print jersey, small duck egg print jersey, stone jersey
Beige jersey again, ivory and stone stripe, stone woven, medium taupe woven, dark taupe woven.
I have bought the dirty denim but it is not pictured.

Sunday, 1 November 2015

Blackcurrant and Burgundy PJ pants

I've had the fabric for the main part of these PJ pants for a large number of years. It was too small for all the things I tried to use it for. Today I decided to make some PJ pants with a contrast lower leg. I love them.
The main body is a dark brownish blackcurrant colour with a directional white print, a lovely cotton fabric remnant but neither wide nor long.
I added some linen look cotton fabric to make the legs full length - burgundy printed with blackcurrant to give the linen effect (its plain on the back). I also added 3/4" elastic and white ribbon ties.
Beautiful quality cotton, should wear well and get ever softer with every wash.

Friday, 30 October 2015

Blackcurrent Cardigan Jacket

Here's the last piece of the Autumn Berries Collection (at least the last piece currently cut out).
The fabric is a wool mix stretch woven, with a wooly blackcurrant coloured front and a matte dark brown back. I've sewn it up with the cardigan jacket from my favourite pattern - New Look 6735.
I've cut it slightly shorter and omitted the belt. I have interfaced the lower sections of the front band with very lightweight interfacing and am planning on adding buttons and button holes to the front.
The fit is good (though tweaked somewhat from the original).
I might switch to green now I've made 11 pieces, or perhaps I will make some Berry Trousers!

Tuesday, 27 October 2015

Wearing the Cranberry cowl neck and Burgundy skirt

Indoor shots now since it is dark outside. Something odd has happened to the colours.
 As they seem closer to these colours than the shot of me wearing it.

Friday, 23 October 2015

Berry Collection: Cranberry cowl neck top

Dark red or maybe slightly pinkish burgundy, I'm not quite sure what the best description would be, so I'm going for Cranberry which seems to describe it well.
It picks out the Cranberry parts of the animal print sweater knit skirt I made at the start of the month.
So should make a great outfit with brown tall boots.
My Autumn Berries collection now has 10 pieces in it. I have a dark burgundy cardigan jacket still to come. Maybe I can get that 11th piece in before the end of October?

Thursday, 22 October 2015

Trousers plans

I've been looking at the Burda magazine and I think the plus version would be better, only I see it is for

Recommended Materials

Trouser fabrics. Fabrics with elastane are ideal.
Note: The finished trousers should stretch widthwise. Therefore, fabrics with lengthwise stretch should be cut widthwise, see marked grain line. Cut fabrics with crosswise stretch lengthwise, as usual.
 I have various non stretch trousers fabrics I want to use. If I go up a size do you think that would work? It seems a fairly classic trouser pattern (I do better without a front fly but do like pockets.)

UK PDF link
US PDF link
I have the original magazine so will be tracing that. On the measurement chart I seem to be closest to the size 46 for my bottom half. I am willing to have a go with some non stretch woven fabrics as muslins and see how I get on.

I am open to advice on this one please as would like lots of nice wearable trousers.

Tuesday, 20 October 2015

Upcoming plans

I have two more items planned in my berry set - a brighter burgundy cowl neck which matches the bright burgundy in the animal print skirt, and a darker brown/burgundy cardigan jacket.

Then I have leggings, tee and skirt in dark green to give options with a dark green drape cardigan I bought becuase it made my eyes looks really green (but doesn't seem to work with much in my wardrobe).

After that I think I am going to sew some new trousers and have been looking at various Burda patterns I have made in the past. It may be that I need to retrace an old favourite or add the Burda crotch curves to something from the Big 4

Burda 02-2010 #102 Pants

These were a particular favourite in the past though I'm only currently still wearing one pair of these. I think they need a stretch woven and I had used a non stretch for some of the pairs. Also I think the waistband is below the waist so if I measure my waist they are too tight. I like the overall style a lot though so I am going to have a bit of an experiement with these again I think.

Sunday, 18 October 2015

Variegated cardigan

The same alterations as the purple cardigan, this one is cut from a variegated knit which is difficult to cut and pin due to the open nature of the knit.

Here's the fabric (a bit more of a closeup) you can see dark brown, medium brown, ivory, purple and burgundy.

Here's the collection to date (not everything can be worn with everything but there are lots of options).
I've worn a few of these already.

Friday, 16 October 2015

Purple Tee

A little purple tee cut from the same fabric as the leggings and cardigan.
A good layering piece and still in the same rich berry shades I am enjoying so much this Autumn.
Here's the collection to date, I think its coming along well and also mixes in with the brown pieces I did in September.
I have more to come as I did a crazy load of cutting out the other weekend.